Happy New Year Greetings! I wanted to share a little after Christmas fun before saying goodbye to 2024. It was inspired by many similar ideas posted on Pinterest and an experimental, kiln melted, bottle piece I was saving. Remember this awkward looking piece from a previous post? https://glassictouch.com/2023/10/01/recycled-bottle-kiln-play-diy/
Jute twine was used as a hanger, but wanting a thinner, natural looking string to hang my items with, I soaked white cotton string in coffee.
I found this project easier to do while the stick was hanging on a nail, but laying it on a flat surface would work as well.
After gathering a variety of pieces from my rusty/crafting stash, and sanding/staining an old stick that was approximately 21” long, bits and pieces were put together to tie on.
Along with the melted bottle I used clear glass donuts, mini pinecones, star cookie cutter, stars, cinnamon ornaments that were made several years ago, small brown bottle, bells, dried orange slices, metal snowflakes cut from a rusty garland, and faux greenery. The small pearl embellishment in the center of the glass donuts were made by gluing a pearl in a small opened up bell.
When finished, I put a drop of super glue on every knot for reinforcement.
I absolutely loved this project. So much fun! There’s never ending ways you can do it. Can you imagine a big long one, maybe hanging over a couch at Christmas time? And think of all the seasonal themes; I’m already thinking hearts!
Comment, like and share if you wish. I’ll be back with more in 2025!
Back with an update on the progress of my garden stones. I had hoped to be back sooner but the weather has been hit and miss the last two weeks and it’s affecting what I can get done.
I really wanted to do something with the broken burner grid shown at the end of my previous post and couldn’t wait to see how it would turn out. To resemble flower centers, the ends of two brass door knobs were cut off so they wouldn’t hit the chicken wire when they were pushed into the concrete. Because of their smooth tapered shape, wires were twisted in and around them to help secure them in the concrete. Cut and shaped glass petals were pushed gently in place as well. The glass pieces were still loose after an hour or so. I left them in place with the intention of removing them once the concrete was set and then gluing them in, but the next day they were stuck solid. I pushed the grid in a little too far again. As it dried, the concrete rose up quite a bit in some areas. After some scraping and rubbing with steel wool it didn’t look so bad and I’m happy with it. I’d like to make a couple smaller companion pieces for this one, I’m thinking on it.
I’m making more stones with the grid pattern. Again, the iron grids were coated with diesel fuel first so they could be removed. My helpful husband showed me how to give one snug grid a few gentle taps with a hammer and screwdriver to remove it easily.
I left a large grid embedded in one stone. Two bolts were cut off and pushed in on the sides too just for the heck of it.
I’ve come to the conclusion that pouring four stones in an afternoon is my limit, especially if I’m making the larger ones. I start getting tired. That was the case with my first rock stone. I wouldn’t have done it if the wooden form hadn’t been pre-prepped and the wire reinforcement already cut.
I hurriedly grabbed a scoop of dirty sand from the garden along with any flat rocks I could see and a handful of smaller rocks. I gave all the rocks a quick dunk in a bucket of water to get the dust off. The flat rocks were laid face down over a thin layer of sand. The smaller rocks were laid and pushed into the bare spots.
I should have gone slower, but I did try to fill the cracks around the rocks first as I added a thin layer of concrete. A piece of chicken wire was added and then covered with concrete to fill the form.
When it was unboxed and brushed clean you could see I didn’t get concrete in all the cracks, but I don’t think that’s terrible. I’ll get back to that problem a little later.
I’ve always wanted to make a bottle cube so I’m sharing this last one before I go. I love this one. It’s also small enough that I can make them and others like them in my basement over the winter to be ready next spring.
The inside of the wooden form was 6” x 6” x 5” deep. A glass saw was used to cut the bottoms from two beer bottles. A bottle cutter or wet saw would work too. The cut edges were lined up and taped together with clear label tape creating a cylinder shape. The cylinder measured 4 ½”H x 3 ½” W. Needing only a small amount of concrete for this one, I was able to mix it up in an ice cream bucket. The flat top and bottom surfaces of the bottles were wiped lightly with diesel fuel before centering and standing the cylinder in the prepped form. The cylinder was held down firmly while spooning in the concrete, concentrating on getting it in the corners and filled in around the bottom of the cylinder. Continuing to hold the glass firmly, the form was shaken gently to settle the concrete. I don’t know if it made a difference or not, but I sat a small rockon the cylinder, no wider than the glass, until the concrete was dry.
After setting close to 24 hrs, it was removed from the form to finish drying. Any excess concrete was cleaned off.
Unfortunately, it’s cold here today with no sun. I had to get a picture of it in the house in front of an open door. I’ll get a better picture ourside when I can. There’s no plan on how cubes like these will be used in the garden yet, but I have the winter to think about it. They’re definitely going somewhere!
There was a tiny bit of concrete left over from the cube so I decided to use it to fill the cracks in the rock stone I had made. I used a nail to kind of poke it down into the crack then topped it off. I gently brushed most of the excess off it after it dried a bit. Looks like it might have worked, time will tell.
Looking at the extended weather forecast, I may have a few good days in the second week of November that will be warm enough to get some of my salvaged circles placed in the garden before the temperatures start dropping below freezing every night.
That’s all for now, I’ll return. Stay well friends!
I hope followers haven’t been thinking I was getting lazy, I’ve not posted in a while. It’s been so dang hot all summer that it’s not been fun to work on many outdoor projects, and the little things I have been getting done were boring. But, the weather has cooled now and I’m raring to get going on the paths for my garden.
No plan, just going to visualize it as I go. I’m adamant about making most of the path stones myself; that’s going to be the funniest part. Preferring an aged, rougher look, I went to the salvage pile to see if there was anything I could work with. I found several interesting things to try and incorporate; we’ll see where things go.
I was anxious to get started so my husband built a couple new boxes for me while I went after some 60 lb bags of General Purpose Concrete Mix as was used in a previous garden stone project https://glassictouch.com/category/for-the-garden/.
Adding a chicken wire reinforcement will be an added step with all of the new stones that are made.
The inside of the wooden forms were brushed with diesel fuel as a release agent. I poured about half of the concrete in a form, laid the wire in, then finished filling.
I chose the cast iron grids to experiment with first. They were given a quick swipe or two with a wire brush. I wanted to see if I could easily duplicate the grid pattern and/or embed the grid in the concrete.
I used a half a bag of concrete to embed a small grid in a 10” x 17” form opening. I think I might have pushed it in too far. It didn’t help that I got impatient and tried to unbox it too soon. It’s rougher than I wanted, but it’s fine. It is going to live outside in a garden after all, and I’ll try another one.
Both sides of a larger iron grid were coated with diesel fuel before pushing it into a 14” x 19” concrete filled form. Three quarters of a bag of concrete was used on this one. I had a heck of a time getting the concrete mixed thoroughly in a 5 gal bucket. A pair of stronger hands and arms would have been very helpful; I’ll have to remember that when making this larger stone. The grid came right out though and I’m very pleased with the way it looks.
A handful of hibiscus leaves were laid in the bottom of the last form. It’s probably best to press and flatten the leaves for a little bit before doing this, but, it was a last minute thought and getting late in the day. I’ll surely be doing more of this kind of thing.
That’s all for now. I’m going to need a lot more concrete to keep going and a new form built for the next one I want to try. I’m really looking forward to that one!
Feel free to comment and share. Have a great weekend, I’ll be back soon.
I’m back with a little something random to get the summer season started.
I love watching and listening to all the birds that visit our farm, but I swear the robin population is doubling every year. They are super fast nest builders and will get in every nook they can find. My husband has even had to remove the beginnings of a nest out of the grill of his truck the last few mornings, it’s crazy. They can get a little aggressive when watching over hatchlings learning to fly too. I once had one repeatedly swoop down on the top of my head while I attempted to hang clothes on the line, not realizing her baby was on the ground nearby.
The idea of robin roosts came to mind when we were getting ready to toss a small pile of wood scraps. Why not get a little more use out of the lumber and give our feathered friends a few other options for nesting? It was a plus plus!
I’d consider this a weekend project; no right or wrong way, just using what you have along with a table saw, nail gun and screws.
Our widest board in the pile was 9 ¼”. It was cut in 8” increments to use as bases. Five holes were drilled in each piece for drainage.
Two house shapes from a past project were in the pile so we started with them. They measured about 10” wide and 12” high at the peak. The shapes were attached to the back of the bases. Tongue and groove pieces were trimmed and attached to the sides. The sides were cut at a slant at the top so a steel roof could lie flat against it.
The other roosts had a square design with tongue and groove attached for the sides and back. A piece of 2” wide lumber was added along the top backside to hold the pieces solidly. We forgot to cut a slanted edge on the 2” piece for the roof when we first put them together and had to remove it, take it to the table saw to trim, and reattach it. There’s always a learning process, right?
The roosts were stained and water proofed, drying over night between steps.
They were a bit plain looking at this point. Vintage hooks, handles, insulators, and a rusty wire basket were added to perk them up BEFORE the roofs went on.
The embellishments helped with my concern about hanging them securely too. One hole on each handle and hook was enlarged so a long bolt could be used in place of a screw. It gets pretty windy here. The length on the bolt will be used for wrapping wire when time to hang.
The added extras may even help hold in nesting materials, who knows?
Steel roofs were cut with tin snips and screwed on. Caution is key when working with steel; the edges can be very sharp.
We lightly smoothed the edges of the steel with a grinder before screwing them on. An eye bolt was centered and screwed through the steel for hanging. A washer can be used under the eye bolt to help it fit more snugly between the steel groves.
Per google, it is suggested that robins like their roost to face north or east, 3 to 6 feet off of the ground. I’m not sure it makes that much difference because they are everywhere here. My daughter snagged a couple roosts to hang at her place and we attached ours to yard light poles and an old pine that is due to be replaced in another year or two. A length of wire was wrapped around the tree and wired tightly to the long bolts to hold it secure and prevent rocking in the wind.
Now I’ll be keeping a watchful eye to see if any tenants move in.
I’ve had the winter to mull over hundreds of garden paths and stepping stone ideas. I can’t wait to get back on that project. There’s so many awesome ideas on Pinterest. It’s time to stop looking and start doing.
Feel free to comment, like and share if you so please. It’s fun to hear from readers.
It was time to do something with a small bucket of AirWick bottles I had saved. I was tempted to toss them, but couldn’t do it without at least experimenting with a few in the kiln.
I’ve only had time to play with two, but I like what’s happening so far. I thought it would be fun to share just in case it could spur imagination or interest with other warm glass or recycled glass friends out there somewhere.
I like to do my experimenting in a small tabletop kiln with a window in the lid. It’s not digital. It has a dial with high, medium, and low, so there is no firing schedule; I just go slow. I use the same type of kiln for all my Christmas ornaments too.
I didn’t expect anything earth shattering, but wanted to see how the bottle flattened before doing anything else. A high temp wire hanger was propped in the opening of the bottle before firing it to about 1600 degrees, just in case it would miraculously round up as a nice glob and the wording melted away. It didn’t, lol. I flipped it over and fired it again the same way and the wording was still there.
The wording finally disappeared after I flipped and fired it a third time. Surprising, it ended up as an uneven clear glob that I plan to use in a rustic Christmas decoration later.
The second bottle was cut into slices with a glass saw to see what could be arranged with them.
Several pieces were laid out to resemble a flower. I thought the bottle opening slice was too tall for the flower center, so it was sliced again.
Wanting to maintain its shape and texture, I watched it closely and shut the kiln off at about 1650 – 1700 degrees. I did a quick flash to 1100 degrees, then let it cool completely.
So, what do you think? You can be honest, I have thick skin, lol.
It’s a bit unusual, thin, fragile, and almost weightless, but I like the results. I think it has great possibilities for mixed media or wall art projects. Add some wire, color with glass paints, or even use it as a base and layer over it. I better make a couple more just to be prepared if an idea strikes me. You never know.
I’ll keep experimenting though, there’s extra pieces and more bottles. Stay Well and Be Happy Friends!
So, I did something this summer I hadn’t planned to do. I debated whether to blog it or not, but decided I would just in case they are used in a future project and there was a question about where the materials came from.
I recently found a bunch of textile art supplies/materials I had squirreled away and they’ve got me itchin’ to do some mixed media and make wall art for my home. I’m back to saving scraps of paper and other bits so I have an array to play with this winter.
After a couple years of nursing my garden perennials, they are finally spreading out and filling in spaces. I was admiring all their colors as I mowed around the garden last month when the idea hit me that I should do something with all that pretty.
My first thought was pressing them, which I did in some old books. Then I remembered a dying class my daughter and I attended several years ago that used plants on silk scarves. The silk was wrapped, moistened, and put in a lidded container for 8 weeks; it was a long process.
I skimmed through a couple of YouTube videos and discovered they could be processed in a steamer and that was more to my liking.
Before going further, please keep in mind that I do not claim to be an expert or even experienced in this field. This was done clearly for my own enjoyment.
I made a makeshift steamer out of scrap pieces from my husband’s salvage pile. His salvage business sure does come in handy for me. He keeps it pretty well cleaned up and out of here so I have to look it over and grab quick.
My steamer –
Using white vinegar in a spray bottle, I misted pieces of an old T-shirt and a cotton flour dish towel before laying out the flowers and leaves.
Salt was lightly sprinkled over the flowers along with a heavier sprinkle of alum.
Just for the heck of it, I did another light mist of vinegar too, before rolling them up and tying them tightly. I couldn’t find my white string so raffia was used.
I dampened them lightly with water before steaming, covered, for 2 hours; then left them to cool to room temperature before untying, peeling off the wet flower pieces and giving them a good shaking out.
I tried tying one in a cinnamon roll shape.
While skimming YouTube, I noticed someone had rolled paper with the fabric to dye too, how cool is that? I had thin brown paper so I gave it a try. I love the results. I can see doing more of something like this.
I let the fabric dry completely before washing on a delicate cold cycle, and dried them in the dryer with an old towel to keep them separated.
I’m sure some pieces of these will be pressed before using them, and others will be kept at the ready for more distressing, stitching, painting, stamping, etc.; whatever is needed.
That’s all for now I guess. The day is getting away from me and I have to get back to my glass work.
Hope you all have a great week ahead friends. Stay Happy and Healthy!
A small amount of extra mixed concrete from my last project, pink glass, and resin, yielded a cute little accent stone for my daughter’s flower garden. It measured 6 ½” x 6 ½” x 1 ½”.
Thinking there might be a little extra concrete, four small holes were drilled in the bottom of a square plastic ice cream bucket. I was just going to make a square stone if there was extra until I remembered a mini metal heart mold I had. The inside of the bucket and backside of the heart mold were sprayed with cooking spray in preparation.
There was just enough concrete to pour about 1½” depth into the bucket. A small metal ring had been removed from the heart mold years ago so it was able to be pushed into the wet concrete all the way to the rim and weighed down. I left it to dry for 24 hours before unmolding, then let it dry another 12 hours. A few rough edges were filed down before filling the heart cavity with pink glass shards.
An interior/exterior resin (Amazon) was poured over the glass. This was the first time I’d used resin, but it was so simple and took very little. The resin had to set for 24 hours. The concrete absorbed the resin in a few places around the edge of the heart, but it scraped away easily, before sealing the concrete with grout sealer.
That’s all for now folks, I’m all caught up. I’ll leave you to your weekend. Enjoy!
Now that I’ve started, I think I could really get into this concrete crafting. Oh, the possibilities, and what fun to create some unique designs.
Concrete/stone pathways have been on my garden “want list” for a long time. My grands and I have been collecting rocks from our fields for years and there are so many cool ideas on Pinterest. If only there were more hours in a day.
Anyway, with all the supplies here, I decided to use them again and start making a pathway happen! I have no idea what the rest of the design will be, but it’s a step in the right direction.
I still have a thing for rocks, so I scooped up a bucket of them and gave them a quick wash and rinse. When they were dry, I started layering and gluing them into the heart shape with E6000, trying to keep them level with the heart edge. Sometimes tape was used to hold a glued rock in place to dry and then I filled in under it. Let glue dry a couple days.
The heart opening was taped off before grouting with an indoor/outdoor sanded grout. After a couple hours, the tape was removed and any unwanted grout was scraped away to make a clean line around the edge of the heart. The grout was left to cure for 7 days before sealing the entire stone with grout sealer. I waited another week before putting it outside. (I do plan on covering this stone during the winter to protect it from ice.)
I won’t be making anymore of these large hearts for my garden, but plan on using the wooden box form several more times. My garden is pretty good sized, so a few large shapes will help fill in areas more quickly. I think I’ve already decided where my new stone will go, but don’t want to lock myself into anything until I figure out what I would like to put around it. I have several ideas whirring in my mind, so we’ll see. It would be nice if I could get at least a 6’ x 6’ area completed after the weather cools this fall and share my progress with you. Fingers crossed.
As a newcomer to concrete, I forget that there is often a little extra mixed concrete left over after pouring a project. Such was the case here. I didn’t expect much but was prepared with a prepped ice cream bucket and mini tart pan just in case. And guess what? The little stone is coming next, lol. I don’t mean to overwhelm today, but it’s too hot to work outside, giving me a chance to catch up on my neglected social media until the afternoon sun passes. Hope you don’t mind.
Hello Friends! I’m back to share a lovely piece I made for my garden.
The inspiration came from a picture in a flea market gardening magazine I was reading several years ago. It was a rain filled, square concrete block with a heart shape embedded in it. As I recall, it looked aged with its worn corners and heavily pebbled concrete. You could easily imagine it being a pleasant little surprise one might find in their grandma’s garden that had been catching water for years. While I could never duplicate the one in the magazine, I’m pretty pleased with the result I got.
After a long search for an inexpensive heart shape to use for this project, I finally found a puffed heart cake pan at a flea market a couple months ago for six bucks. Then all that was needed was scrap wood and concrete and it was a go.
First, a line was drawn on the cake pan and some of the excess was cut off with tin snips. The sharp metal edges were ground smooth.
Screw together a wooden box frame mold and attach a bottom as was done in https://glassictouch.com/2015/09/08/a-new-concrete-boot-scraper/ . The inside dimensions of mine were 12″W 14″L. Drill drain holes in the bottom. Brush the inside of the box with diesel fuel to prevent the concrete from sticking.
I found it handy to center and lay the box mold over an upright 5 gallon bucket. Concrete was mixed per instructions on the bag. I left the concrete kind of thick and scooped it in the box. Not wanting a real smooth top, it was leveled out roughly with the bottom of a jar and my fingertips and was approximately 2 ½” thick. The back of the cake pan was sprayed with cooking spray, pushed down evenly, about half way, into the wet concrete, weighed down with rocks, and left to dry for 24 hours.
After 24 hours, remove the cake pan, and with an extra pair of hands, unmold by standing the frame on its side and unscrewing the back first. Lay it down and remove the sides. Let it dry for at least another 24 hours.
That’s it. Some water, a few rocks, and sun happy miniature water plants (Amazon) brought it to life. It’s tucked in among the flowers in my garden for the bees and butterflies to enjoy, and hopefully begin its own aging process.
I hope you found this project fun. Share if you like.
I’ve recently used my frame and cake pan again – there’s another project coming!
After noticing the beautiful texture in a chipped relish dish, I couldn’t resist doing something with it. And, since it’s February, a heart seemed like the perfect thing to do.
I cut a heart shape pattern before doing any glass cutting and held it on the underside of the dish to move around and choose what portion of the dish I wanted to use.
The handles of the dish broke off easily with a wheel cutter and I used my hand held glass cutter to score across the middle and break it in half. I marked an area beyond where my pattern would go and removed excess glass with the wheel cutter so the section I wanted to use would flatten nicely in the kiln.
The heart pattern was traced onto the smooth side of the glass and the tracing was then etched with a pencil scribe. The etched line was filled with black marker to dry. This is a step I like to do when I’m using a glass saw. When the marker is wiped off, it remains in the etched line so you can see it as you cut. In this case though, the black marker was still hard to see with the texture of the glass, so I went over it again with a red china marker and that did the trick. (This works great for dark glass too, just use a white marking pen). I removed all the glass I good around the tracing before using the saw.
After grinding the edges to smooth, the top edge of the heart piece was rounded slightly at the grinder to remove the high textured ridges before firing it again.
The glass was thick so a wide foil was needed. I used two widths of 1/2″ foil and overlapped them on the side of the heart. Then it was soldered up and finished. Completed, it measured 6″L x 4″ W. Surprisingly, it only weighed 4 oz.
I’ll be using this glass some more. I’m thinking a blue version would be nice for Mother’s Day.
I’ve enjoyed making hearts lately and hope to get more made for my Etsy shop and FB page as soon as time allows. 🙂
If you’re new to my blog, Thank You for stopping by. Please feel free to like, comment on , or share this post. Happy Valentine’s Day Everyone!
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